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Any experienced billiard shooter will attest that nothing is worse and harms your shot more than a sticky cue shaft. There are several techniques that one can use to clean their pool cue shaft, ranging from a simply dry wipe-down, to and involved pool cue shaft smoothing and burnishing.
The buildup of sticky residue can accumulate over time if your pool cue shaft is not cleaned properly. You can help slow the buildup of sticky residue by always wiping the pool cue shaft down with a cotton cloth after play, as well as by doing the obvious; ensuring that you play with cleanly washed hands. You can also use a slightly damp cloth, but it is imperative that you completely and thoroughly dry the pool cue shaft immediately after wiping it clean to prevent warping.
For a more effective, yet more involved method of cleaning your pool cue shaft, you can use a pool cue smoother and a pool cue burnisher. These are generally considered the most effective mode of pool cue shaft care. You begin by wrapping the smoother fully around the shaft, and continue by stroking the shaft gently. The trick here is ensure that too much pressure is not applied, as there is the risk of producing unwanted heat through the friction that could be generated. Finish only once you have reached the desired smoothness is achieved.
Once you have smoothed to cue shaft perfection, you follow this up with burnishing. Burnishing involves the wrapping of burnishing leather around the newly smoothed pool cue shaft. You then proceed to stroke the shaft with rapid motion, but this time, moderate pressure is to be applied. Once this is complete, follow it up with another final smoothing. Finish it off with a final polish, using either a polishing glove or a cotton cloth.
If you have any other tried and true tips for cleaning a pool cue shaft, be sure to contact us and tell us about it by using the form below!
Rob has posted a comment on this article about cleaning a pool cue shaft
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This content, Cleaning A Pool Cue Shaft, was created by Billiards Forum Editor on 9/7/2006 4:22:01 PM, and was updated on 9/7/2006 4:22:01 PM.
A soft abrasive, ie. toothpaste, used to clean the ferrule and a high grit sand paper around 600 to 1000 to shine up the shaft. Keep in mind not to sand the shaft while still wet or damp, for this will splinter the wood.
A really rough shaft must have the dings removed and be initially smoothed with 400 or finer sandpaper and a piece of leather. After that, the very best stuff is "TurtleWax Polishing compound". WOW...it actually makes the shaft shine. It makes a shaft so slick it's hard to get enough grip on it to pick up the cue. It comes in a plastic "can" with a very soft foam applicator. the tiny amount that sticks to the bottom of the applicator is enough to do the job. Rub the shaft vigorously with the applicator then a wipe with a soft cloth. As I said....WOW!
Turtle wax eh? I would actually love that for the lower part of my cue. I seriously get so frustrated when the cue sticks to my hand bridge. It gets worse as the weather gets warmer. I also hate the talc, or hand chalk too. This turtle wax solution sounds like it may work for me. Thanks for the tip.
Not just turtle wax...it's turtle wax Polishing compound. Nat
what about graphite cues? can you use water on those? cuz is carbon fiber so wont matter right?
I usually apply carnauba car wax to mine, let it dry a few minutes till it's dull looking, then buff it off with a soft cloth and long strokes with the grain. Sometimes I'll use 2000 grit sandpaper to remove any residue or accumulated dirt. I'd urge anyone never use a coarser sandpaper than that, because over time you may very well end up with a long toothpick. Plus, using that fine of paper followed by several layers of wax will result in a cue slicker than an icicle. Also, carnauba wax will clean the chalk off of the ferrule and leave it shiny, which for me personally helps in sighting. I also use orange furniture wipes (Pledge) between waxings to touch up and clean and they work very well.
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